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Heels on wheels: Bus tour rolls into its fourth year


Few people would ever think of flying all the way across the country to catch a bus.

But Ken Moise did.

Then again, the bus he was catching was not just any bus, he said.

Moise, a new OB-GYN with UNC Hospitals, had a commitment to speak at a medical convention in San Francisco the Saturday before the bus was to leave Chapel Hill. As an organizer of the convention, he had planned to stay another day and then catch a Sunday night flight scheduled to land at Raleigh Durham Airport about the same time the Tar Heel Bus Tour was set to pull out of Chapel Hill.

The original plan was for his wife to meet him at the airport and drive him to a Franklin County tobacco farm where the bus would be later that morning.

A delayed flight blew that possibility and left Moise spending an extra $300 for a ticket to New Bern where the tour would stop for the night.

The money, he said later, was well spent. "I was determined I was not going to miss this."

Chapel Hill is not the South

People like Moise have been catching a ride on the Tar Heel Bus Tour for four years now. The privately funded tour was initiated by the late Chancellor Michael Hooker to introduce new faculty to the state and the role the University plays serving it.

John Florin, a cultural and historical geographer who has been at Carolina since 1969, joined the 2000 tour midway through its May 22-26 run to offer his insights as the bus snaked its way from Charlotte into the mountains.

"We in Chapel Hill sometimes call Chapel Hill the southern part of heaven," Florin said, "but it would be a mistake for people to arrive here and think of it as the South."

The bus tour, more than anything else, helps to correct that misperception. "We are fortunate in North Carolina in that we are in a state that is filled with a series of landscape and cultural differences that make it an exciting place. We need to understand that. We need to see its differences.

"We sometimes sit in Chapel Hill -- and Chapel Hill is a very peculiar kind of place -- and don't sense the diversity and the wealth of North Carolina. A trip like this introduces people who might otherwise never get to see it to at least snippets of that wealth."

Mike Smith, director of Carolina's Institute of Government and the tour guide, said people come to Chapel Hill from all over the place and may carry unfortunate negative stereotypes about the South.

"One of the things that this bus tour does is give them the opportunity to meet lots of different kinds of people in lots of different parts of the state so that they see the differences that are not about intelligence but are about custom, that are about culture, that are about circumstance," Smith said.

A panorama of people

The bus covered more than 1,200 miles at a pace that made it seem as much a relay race as field trip.

It was not about looking through a bus window at passing scenery. It was about making stops that gave fleeting looks into people's lives.

In Franklin County, they met two farm families determined to keep their land -- one by hanging on to tobacco; the other by letting go.

"Used to be a man could take 20, 25 acres of tobacco and provide for his family good," said Steve Mitchell, a third-generation tobacco farmer. He and his wife now raise soybeans, small grains and beef cattle to supplement their income. Still, tobacco accounts for 90 percent of their livelihood.

John and Betty Vollmer took over the family farm in 1972 but did not start diversifying from tobacco to other crops until four years ago when their four children had all finished college. "I can't put kids through school with strawberries and pumpkins," Betty Vollmer explained.

Now one of those kids, son Russ, and his wife Mary have come back to the farm with their fresh ideas on how to keep it going, such as opening the farm for educational visits by school groups and families. Next fall, they plan to start "agritainment" ventures that include hayrides and a field where people must find their way through a maze cut through corn stalks.

The Franklin County stops proved particularly meaningful for Kurt Ribisl, an assistant professor of health behavior. Ribisl grew up in Winston-Salem and his research interests include evaluating tobacco control programs.

But until his visit with the Mitchells and Vollmers, he said, "I'd never actually set foot on a tobacco farm."

These visits, he said, helped him understand the realities farmers face. They also reinforced his belief that it's right for farmers get some of the state's $4.6 billion share of a lawsuit settlement.

Before the farm stops, Ferrel Guillory gave the group a primer on tobacco in North Carolina. He said the state's tobacco farmers feel under assault from forces they can't control, such as anti-smoking sentiments and the erosion of the federal tobacco support program.

"You will find the tobacco farmers full of angst," said Guillory, the director of Carolina's Program on Southern Politics, Media and Public Life. He rode along on the tour's first two days to serve as a guide.

Farther east in Grifton, the tour group met a town still digging out from the effects of Hurricane Floyd.

After a barbecue lunch served in a relief-supply warehouse, the group saw some of the hardest-hit areas, including a desolate road lined by abandoned homes ruined when a nearby creek overflowed its banks. Household debris littered the sandy soil, and a framed photographic portrait of a man leaned against the trunk of a tree like some graveyard monument.

"There was still a sense of those people's lives there that they couldn't come back to," said Kate McGraw, information services coordinator in the Health Sciences Library.

In New Bern, the group discovered a historic town down east that served as North Carolina's colonial capital and sits along the shore where the Neuse River empties into the Pamlico Sound.

The group toured Tryon Palace, home of the Royal colonial governor, then gathered inside a tent on the palace grounds to eat dinner with incoming Carolina freshmen and their parents.

Entertainment was provided by Carolina's Bland Simpson, an assistant professor of creative writing who plays with The Red Clay Ramblers. As dinner was served, a thunderstorm boomed in from the sound. While the lights flickered, the power stayed on and Simpson kept singing, the tent's fabric walls fluttering in the wind.

At a Rotary Club lunch in Asheboro, the group met John McGlohon, a living reminder of why there is a Memorial Day. McGlothon enlisted in the Army in June of 1941 a week after his 18th birthday, wanting to become a parachute rigger.

Four years later, he found himself stuck in the glass belly of a B-29 bomber with a camera -- and history -- in his hands as his plane flew over Hiroshima behind another plane called the Enola Gay. His pictures, McGlothon knows, will help future generations remember the event long after his generation is gone.

In Chatham County's Siler City, the bus tour stopped at a community center where participants heard local officials talk about how an influx of Hispanic immigrants has affected the racial dynamics of this rural place.

Rick Givens, chair of the Chatham County Board of Commissioners, said a UNC system-sponsored trip to Mexico forced him to see immigrants in a different light.

Instead of wanting to send Hispanics back to where they came from, he wants to help them make a home here.

"Let's just deal with the people we have and make their lives better and our lives better," he said.

In Burke County, inside Foothills Correctional Institute, the tour members met Roy and Lacey, two young men who talked about their efforts to turn their lives around behind bars.

They are different in many ways, strikingly the same in others.

Roy is a skinny white kid doing time for an armed robbery he committed after quitting high school.

Lacey is a black kid with an easy smile who was convicted for attempted murder.

Both had found religion in prison and the pathway to a four-year business degree.

Roy became a born-again Christian, Lacey a Muslim.

"Who was your role model" growing up, asked Steven Shaban, a surgeon at UNC Hospitals.

"Movie stars," Lacey said.

Roy, because he committed his crime while still a juvenile, will have the chance to get out in a few years.

Lacey, because of Structured Sentencing laws, is not so lucky.

Not yet 25, Lacey will be more than 50 by the time he can get out of prison.

Hours later, the group sat in a Greensboro motel listening as Supreme Court Justice Henry Frye told them what he thought about the value of Structured Sentencing.

"On average, it's probably better to take broad discretionary power away," Frye said. Before Structured Sentencing, two people could be convicted for the same crime, and one could end up being sentenced for 20 years, the other for four months.

The majesty of Madison

In the rugged mountains of Madison County, bus riders learned about rug-hooking and clogging, and about doctoring families in a place where there is no hospital.

It was here they met Mars Hill Mayor Raymond Rapp, who showed the group around his town and the tiny college that shares its name.

"Around here we refer to you as the other hill," Rapp said.

Max Lennon, the college president, told how the school's clogging team, despite its affiliation with the Baptist Church, has won the national championship nine times. "Baptists may not believe in dancing, but they can appreciate great toe tapping when they see it," Lennon said.

From Mars Hill, the bus stopped at a converted diner where Marianna Daly, the county's only doctor, sees patients.

There are two kinds of doctors, Daly told the group. There are the "forehead doctors," who lean their heads in to dispense information to their patients on the way out the door. And there are the "belly doctors," who take the time to learn as much about the outside lives of their patients as the inside of their bodies.

Daly, who has a master's degree from Carolina's public health school, grew up in Durham and went off to Princeton with the idea of becoming a forest ranger until someone told her, "You want to work with people some place beautiful." And it is the beauty of its mountains and its people that have kept her here the past 12 years. "It fits what I wanted to do and where I wanted to be," she said.

The bus parked for the night in front of Balsam Mountain Inn, with its sweeping porches and breathtaking views and welcoming beds nearly as wide as the rooms. And, for this one night, it had the music of the Trantham Family Singers, who'd so impressed Michael Hooker on the 1997 bus tour that they were asked to perform last year at his memorial service.

Father Doug had a banjo strapped around his neck, but it was clear from the first lick that he played second fiddle to his three children. There was the 6-year-old, who told the sing-along story "We're Going on A Bear Hunt," his 11-year-old son, who really did play fiddle and dulcimer, and 14-year-old Emily, who wore a straw hat over Raggedy Ann hair and sang with a voice spun of gold.

Gene Nichol, the new dean of the law school, sat silently at one of the tables closest to the stage, transfixed up to the Tranthams' last song. "Anybody got a lighter?" he yelled as they finished, eager for an encore.

But even a girl with an angel's voice can have a stomach that growls. Emily glared at her audience and said, "We haven't eaten, people."

The economic divide

Florin told the group that North Carolina is divided into three distinct geological regions: the coastal plains to the east, the mountains to the west and the Piedmont in the middle.

The more meaningful divide, in terms of shifting economic fortunes, separates the Piedmont's urban crescent from every other place in the state.

Various stops on the tour put those differences in sharp relief and revealed that the state has an economy as complex and changing as its people.

On a Wednesday morning in Charlotte, the group gazed out the window of the 59th floor of the Bank of America building and looked out at all the various improvement projects the bank had worked with the city's government leaders to make happen.

That afternoon, on Main Street in Mars Hill, they stood inside a $6,000 gazebo the city had built as part of its revitalization efforts. Evelyn Underwood, an 89-year-old member of the town council, contibuted to the project by planting flowers.

Tour members read from their guide book that the "three T's" of the North Carolina economy are tobacco, textiles and technology.

What they learned was that a fourth T -- tourism -- is continuing to emerge as tobacco and textiles fade.

Tourism is blossoming from mountains to coast and also in the out-of-the-way places such as Seagrove in Randolph County, where a cluster of clay potters like Sid Luck sell their wares.

Luck, who runs his potter's wheel out of an old chicken coop, is a retired school teacher and fifth-generation potter.

Terry Zug, the chair of the University's Curriculum in Folklore, views Luck's shop and the 100 or so like it around Seagrove as one more magnet to draw tourists to the state.

That may be, Luck said, but for him, there has always been a bigger return of pleasure than profit. "People talk about having clay in their veins and there is something to that," Luck said.

The mountains of western North Carolina are a wonderful place to live but a hard place to make a living. Becky Anderson and the organization she runs, HandMade of America, is working to change that.

The arrival of interstate highways spurred the development of the "invisible industry" of tourism, Anderson said. Locals have always had a love-hate relationship with the people who come in their cars to stare at their mountains, Anderson said. To them, tourists have always meant traffic and trash. More and more, they are beginning to realize that tourists also mean cash in their pockets.

HandMade seeks to grow a regional economy by marketing the things made by hand in the mountains -- from quilts to rocking chairs to blackberry jam -- that cannot be replicated on an assembly line anywhere else.

"If you think we are going to be the Detroit of Dixie, think again," Anderson said. "This is not gentle terrain, and the terrain is a terrific problem. It is also a wonderful asset."

There are other vital pieces of the state's economy, large and small, old and new, that the tour sought to highlight.

In Lenoir, the bus stopped at Bernhardt Furniture, a family-owned business founded in 1889 that now operates with a blend of "high tech and high touch," said G. Alexander "Alex" Bernhardt, vice president and general manager.

"We are trying to do things that are interesting, different and hopefully better than what the competition is doing," Bernhardt said.

Nearly a third of all the furniture produced in the United States is produced in North Carolina.

In Yadkinville, the group visited Unifi Inc., a humming, modernistic plant where polyester chips are poured into ovens, then made into a textured, wool-like fiber used for anything from sportswear to the seats of sports cars.

In Morrisville, the tour made its final stop at Hangers Cleaners, where Joseph M. DeSimone, a Carolina chemistry professor with dozens of patents, showed how he had developed a way to use carbon dioxide in place of toxic solvents to clean clothes.

The process is safer for the environment and easier on employees because it does not require heat, DeSimone said.

The new technology also gives DeSimone a toehold on an established $8 billion industry that is bigger than the country's motion picture industry.

From bus to campus

And so from east to west, from tobacco to innovative cleaning solvents, the bus tour went.

"On this tour, you see people who are regular, everyday folks working hard, and you see people who are regular everyday folks in a different setting like Bank of America working hard and you see North Carolina is not one or the other but all of these things," Mike Smith said.

"As the University, if we want to help the state, we have to recognize that we have to put ourselves in the place where those folks are and help them on their own terms, not on our terms."

The lesson was not lost on Haibo Zhou.

"In Chapel Hill, you don't see the hardships of people's lives," said Zhou, an assistant professor of biostatistics. "It's like it doesn't exist. You come out here and you see it."

Zhou has been at Carolina for three years. He grew up in Qingdao, a town in eastern China. While he has been to the North Carolina coast, Winston-Salem and Charlotte, he had never spent time in the rural part of the state, so he was thankful for the bus tour.

"I could drive through it but I wouldn't get an insider's knowledge of issues," he said. "Our teaching and research will be more productive, more of a service to the state."

But the tour was not just for journey-takers to get to know the state but to discover things about each other as well.

Conversations on the bus ranged from discussing what they had seen -- "That impressed me, that those people were able to sit there and talk like that," a woman said about Siler City -- to last night's ballgame -- "It was a blow-out in the second half," another woman said of a Lakers/Blazers playoff game -- to the ride itself -- "We need a massage stop," someone said on behalf of everyone.

The tour also inspired Janet E. Porter, the associate dean of the School of Public Health, to turn to poetry. The following stanzas seemed to capture the spirit of the ride:

We had lots of laughter
Memories and fun
But when this is over
When we're all done

Friendship and networks
Are what will remain.
A commitment to serve North Carolina
We will surely sustain.

Smith said the friendships formed on the tour could foster the kind of cross-disciplinary collaboration needed to help the University respond to the state's complex problems.

"Not one thread of any discipline can have the kind of impact that all the threads coming together can have," he said. "I think our challenge after the bus tour is to try to realize the potential -- to try to find ways our campus can facilitate that coming together."


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